Notes on Moving Country | A Mash-up Of Ideas, Tips and Complex Emotions
Chances are that if
you’re reading this then you are thinking about moving to London, already live
in London, or know someone else who is thinking of moving. When I came up with
the idea to ‘help’ or give tips on moving to London, I really didn’t realise
how much content there would be to consider. I could go on and on about the
differences and ways to overcome them, but for now the hurdles I faced in the
first few months of living in London is already a lot to read!
I had visited London
before moving here, so I already knew the basics, i.e. never ride in a Black
Cab (they are super expensive, get an Uber instead) or when on an escalator
stand on the right, but knowing how to pretend
to be a Londoner, and actually being one felt like a completely different
kettle of fish. I’ll let you in on a little secret; no one is really a true
Londoner, and even less know how to get around without a map. Fake it 'til you
make it is an everyday reality!
Making the move wasn’t
easy, and at times not even fun. There were (and still are) times when I just
want to scream FUCK YOU LONDON at everyone and come home on the next flight.
The funny thing is that after a year I am getting more and more attached to
this filthy concrete jungle. I don’t think anyone who lives away from his or
her home country for an extended period of time ever looks at the world the
same way. When I was little I wanted to grow up in London. Now I appreciate how
amazing the quality of life in New Zealand is, and how lucky I am to be a New
Zealander.
Here are a few of the
things I remember from when I arrived…
The first Day
I arrived into the UK
on the Thameslink, the underground train which runs through the tunnel between France and England. This was because I had already spent some time in Europe
backpacking before coming to London (check out the posts in my archive). Everything
went well with the trains in Germany, which was where I was staying with
friends. Bahn is one of the greatest passenger train companies in the world in
my opinion. As long as you can get across where you want to go they will get
you a ticket. I had the eurail pass, but a ticket on the chunnel was a separate
fare. Depending on where you book the prices can be an extra little surprise at
the end of your trip, so make sure you’ve budgeted for this. I had to change
trains in Brussels from a Bahn train to the English Thameslink. I knew I had
found the right part of the train station (which felt oddly like an airport)
when I saw the signage. Unlike everything else in the station it was all
written in English and there were red and white cartoon drawings of London
landmarks all over the walls of the waiting room. Kitschy old England here I
come!
One thing to be
careful of is getting your residency permit. When the customs officer looked at
my passport he asked me for my residency permit card (the plastic card which
looks like a driving licence that acts as your visa while you are in the
country). I had opted to collect it from the post office once I got to London,
but he told me I needed it to clear customs and enter the UK. Oh no. I don’t
know if this is a common problem, or if he was just wrong about needing it the
first time you enter, but he told me he would “let me off this time”. Once you
have collected your permit from one of the designated post offices, make sure
you take it with you in your wallet. It’s a useful form of ID (lots of places
request 3 forms of ID i.e. the bank) and you also need to have it with you for
international travel along with your passport.
I was so damn excited
to arrive at Kings Cross. It felt so weird because I was finally here, but I
hadn’t taken a plane or dealt with all the airport drama. I’d made it! I had
planned to stay with a cousin who lived in Bermondsey, so just like a pro, and
with backpack on, I bought myself an oyster card from the machines in the
station and jumped on the tube (Northern Line southbound to London Bridge and
then Jubilee Line eastbound one stop to Bermondsey).
The First Week
Sleep. Sleeeeeeeeep. I
slept so much the first week. I think being in a huge city by yourself for the
first time can feel psychologically draining. Be prepared for this. One of my
favourite places to seek comfort and feel safe is my bedroom, and if you’re
like me then you understand the struggle of staying in a new place. My cousin
was very friendly and welcoming, but they were still practically strangers to
me (I only remember meeting her and her partner once before about seven years
ago) and they have two crazy gorgeous energetic girls. An only child who loves
quiet private spaces? I was already out of my comfort zone without leaving the
house!
The first few days I
was there Emily (Le Cousin) showed me around Southwark, up Bermondsey street
towards City Hall, Tower Bridge and over by Maltby Street and the craft beer
mile to the east, and Borough and London Bridge in to the west.
The rest of the week
was mostly admin. I found the post office that had my residency permit and once
you have that you can apply for a national insurance number. I found a bank and
joined (Lloyds, but I don’t know if this was necessarily the best one), bought
a sim for my phone and got a plan (that was with EE, 16 GBP a month, not bad)
and got a key cut. If you know me you might know that I love supermarkets and
buying food. I am on a budget so I tend to shop at Tesco or Asda (a bit like
countdown and Pack-n-save in New Zealand) but if you can afford to be lux then
Waitrose is a good chain. I won’t even talk about Whole Foods Market because I
can’t afford it.
Now for the essential
apps: the London Tube Map app will tell you delays and closures in real time –
and now that the night tube is running on Friday and Saturday nights it gives
you info about that too. The most useful one to get is Citymapper (the
Londoner’s transport bible), this app is a lifesaver and is right about 95% of
the time. Trust me, you can thank me later. BBC News, Tinder, Weather. Spotify
Premium - ideal when you’re on the tube with no reception but you want the
freshest beats in the carriage, nahmean? Also Time Out magazine is a great
place to start looking if you don’t know what to see and do.
The First Month
I finally got out and
went for my first run in London! I hadn’t been for a run since Bavaria and it
felt so good! I decided to check out Southwark Park, which quickly became my
regular route. It has a pond, art gallery aaand outdoor gym equipment. Yep, if
you want a free gym in London you will end up being one of those crazy people
in tights working out in the middle of a park for everyone and their dog to
stare at. I didn’t care – it was free!
I also started
applying for jobs. I got a few job trials and finally got offered a job at the
National Maritime Museum. I didn’t go through an agency or anything like that
and I don’t really feel like it would have made much of a difference to be
honest. I found online job searches provided a lot of opportunities. If you’re
interested in art-based jobs try artsjobs.co.uk, museumjobs.co.uk, hiive,
creative skill set, indeed and gumtree.
It takes a lot of effort to stay on top
of the massive money snowball that it London, so don’t stop applying for jobs
even if you don’t think you have a chance. Since I’ve been here I’ve had
interviews with The Royal Opera House, Buckingham Palace, and a restored Dutch
Barge Kitchen and Bar on the Thames. I didn’t expect to get an interview for
any of them! I was faced with the very real possibility that I would have to
work in hospitality, an industry which I respect for the amount of hard work
everyone puts in every day, but I was so happy when I was offered the museum
job, and even more so at my current job at a high profile central London art
gallery.
I found the best way
of combining exploring central London, feeling like you have something vaguely
resembling a social life, and not eating out alone was to go on tinder dates.
Now hear me out. You meet someone online. After the obvious safety precautions
such as talking for long enough to sus out if he/she is a psycho, facebook stalking
to make sure their pictures are legit (life hack, if they have their tinder
photos synced to their photo library you can type their phone number into
facebook and see their profile) and deciding they are ok, you can meet them in
the middle of town, somewhere that they suggest and boom - you’ve got yourself a free city tour
and you now know of one more place to eat or to have a drink (don't be a dick and make sure you split the bill, obviously). They don’t have
to know that you don’t actually have any friends or that you’ve never been to
this part of town before... or that you’ve spent the day in bed eating
chocolate and watching Bridget Jones. You are ‘London You’, you are exotic and
exciting, you have a weird accent, appreciation of alcohol and easy-going
attitude. You can do this my fellow Kiwi. And if the date went badly you never
need to see that person again. So, like, win win, right?
The First Six Months
First comes the job,
then comes the house. Getting the keys to my first London flat was one of my
big-kid moments. I found my own place (sharing with two others) all by myself
on the other side of the world. I was so damn proud. I used spareroom.co.uk
because I knew I didn’t want to live with other kiwi’s. Nothing wrong with us,
but I figured that if I wanted to live with kiwi’s I could have stayed at home,
right? But if you do want that little bit of support then the facebook group
Kiwi’s in London is a good place to look for potential flatties. I contacted my
future housemates and arranged a time to see the apartment, had a
viewing/interview and they liked me. I was in like flynn! I used my backpack
and a couple of cardboard boxes (I didn’t have much stuff) and booked an Uber.
A word of warning
though about finding a flat; tenancy agents do actually make it quite hard for
foreigners to find affordable housing in London. I had a stable full time job
paying minimum wage (which is less than the London Living Wage, not cool) which
was within walking distance of my house, I’m single and good at saving money,
but after my referencing check – which they charged me 180 pounds for – I was
told that I wasn’t earning enough to live at the property. I then needed a
guarantor that would legally be responsible to make my rent payments if I
failed to. But they also had to reside in the UK. I didn’t have anyone I could
ask, so that option was out the window too. The only choice I had was to pay my
rent in full to the end of the tenancy in one lump sum. OUCH. I am so grateful
and lucky that my amazing family helped me with this payment, and because of
that I am still here now. London is coming for you, and it wants your money.
I met some amazing
friends whom I’m sure I will stay in contact with for the rest of my life. Contrary
to what you might thing, making friends and meeting people in London is
actually pretty hard because everyone lives so far away. I’ve found work has
been the best place to make friends. A bit like school and uni – everyone is
forced to be at the same place at the same time. Making an effort to meet up
regularly is also super important. Things like Christmas or holidays can leave
you without friends for weeks on end – make sure you catch up again, even (more
like especially) if you feel like its been too long. If it feels like nothing’s
changed when you do meet up again, you’ve got yourself some quality friends.
And don't forget to wear your jandals
- even if christmas is in the middle of winter!
Thank you for reading, I hope some of the things I have touched on will help you with your move to the big City!
Please feel free to message me on here or on
if you ever need any help or a sympathetic ear :)
x G x
Nice article Gamel , even though I am not planning on living there it was very interesting. I should write something about returning to NZ after 10 years being away. Glad to be back .
ReplyDeleteyou should write that, i think the cultural differences would be very interesting. I can remember when Dad told me you were living in Japan but couldn't speak Japanese yet. It's been a long time since then!
DeleteThis is amazing and definitely resonated with me! Gam you have an incredible way with words. Lil x
ReplyDeletethank you Lil! you are too kind xx
DeleteYay, thank you for the mention! We certainly are there to support Kiwis (and other strays) here - have monthly drinks and help with work and flats. Glad you found your space and are enjoying yourself. Bit poo on the rent situation, that is pretty scandalous!
ReplyDeleteHi Gamel, you lived beside us in Stour street, many many years ago.
ReplyDeleteJust read your blog..it's awesome!!Lachie (our 22 year old, Nicoles cousin)is heading to London on Monday for a months holiday..pretty sure he will move over at some point soon.
Thank you for reading! Wow, I bet he will be feeling excited and apprehensive! Is he going with a group? London is so much fun!
Delete